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The night starts when you think it's over
Chiara dancing all night is not an exaggeration. Italian nightlife runs late: dinner ends around ten or eleven, a bar fills after that, and a club does not get going until one. Arriving at a discoteca at eleven means an empty room and a puzzled bouncer. The evening usually has a shape — aperitivo from around seven, dinner, then a giro of one or two bars before anything else — and it is built around walking between places in the same neighborhood rather than traveling to a single destination. Some geography worth knowing in Rome: San Lorenzo is the student quarter, Trastevere the one everybody knows, Testaccio the traditional nightlife district built around the old slaughterhouse, Pigneto the formerly working-class area that turned fashionable. Two practical notes. Drinking is social rather than a goal in itself, and visible drunkenness draws real disapproval rather than amusement. And the last metro in Rome goes at 23:30, half past one on Fridays and Saturdays, after which it is night buses or a taxi — which is why so many Roman evenings end on foot.