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Yunnan, and the 56 nationalities
China officially recognizes fifty-six ethnic groups. The Han are about ninety-two percent of the population, and the other fifty-five, the 少数民族, are concentrated around the edges — nowhere more than Yunnan, where twenty-five of them live, many with their own languages, scripts, dress and festivals. That is why a trip to Yunnan reads as going somewhere genuinely different rather than as a change of scenery: the food, the buildings and the music all change with it. Banknotes carry several of those scripts, which is the easiest place to notice.